Adventures on Xiphias

Falmouth and Helford

Helford river

The Helford, made famous by Daphne du Maurier in Frenchman’s Creek, is the quintessential west country river harbour. I was last here 20 years ago having completed my first passage as skipper of my boat Giminy Kricket of which I had half share. (Westerly GK24, 24 feet long and 4’6″ headroom). I completed the same passage yesterday from Falmouth with much the same result – no problem. Time has crowded the river with mooring buoys, the upper reaches are closed for oyster beds and the anchorage at Durgen beach closed for eel grass protection. I know anchors and cables disturb the bottom but surely the sea horses wouldn’t object to some visitor’s moorings as a one off disruption. The village properties have changed for the better and are in good repair. How many are second homes or holiday lets I wonder but the active sailing club, busy pub, thriving village store and internet cafe indicate there is plenty of local life.

I knew I had to leave Falmouth having completed laundry and sundry other jobs I was accosted by some teenage girls

Eating on board - luxuary

with the words, “Oy dew ‘have andy Rizla?” My negative response drew a startled query, “Don’cha smoke?” Maybe I’m not ready to rejoin town life, just yet. That incident aside most people I pass will say hello and pass the time of day which for a lone yachtsman is always welcome. My stay in Falmouth was also filled with trepidation and fears as I read the admonitions of the pilots and sailing guides but now in sunny Helford I am more positive and ready for the next three big challenges.

• Penzance to Padstow, round Lands End, 65nM, 16 hours
• Padstow to Milford Haven, across the yawning Bristol Channel, 63nM, 16 hours
• Milfrod Haven to Waterford, across the Irish Sea, 98nM, 22 hours

I know I have tarried on my way down west with the excuse that I wanted to explore a little more of the West Country than can be achieved on a normal 3 week summer holiday.