Adventures on Xiphias

Blue Whales and Tribes of Dolphin

Tail of a Blue Whale

The Sea of Cotez, wedged between the Mexican mainland and Baja California, is a most remarkable hot spot for sea life. The fecund sea supports our world’s biggest creatures and it was a delight to sail the rich waters in to company of the great marine mammals. When I was a kid in the ’70s we run campaigns to, “Save the Whale”, and it’s great to realise the effort has paid its dividends. Open to the Pacific at its southern end and fed by the mighty Colorado river in its northern extent the sea has a huge diversity of marine habitat. I enjoyed being based for 9 days on a 46ft catamaran crewed by an experienced whale watching skipper, Swanny, his able first mate, Sophie and supernumerary biologist Carmen. This team rose before dawn to get the most of the whale watching daylight, cooked meals and generally entertained the 8 guests.

The highlight was a calm day with silky seas, there were 100 or more Pilot whales and we spent a couple of hours

The Blue Whale is magnificent

with them watching them as different groups surfaced. We scrambled into the Panga, a 30ft dingy that acted as ship’s tender. Getting that close was enchanting. One of the bulls breched raising himself high above us. We also enjoyed seeing them spy hopping. The Pilot whale isn’t normally so active but the day was about to get a whole lot better.

Out between the islands Blue whales were feeding in the deep 600ft trough and surfacing to take 4 or so breaths between dives. One female was very calm and cooperative. In the silky seas we were able to make close approaches with the water amazingly clear. To see this giant head to tail was an astonishing and moving sight. She and her companions kept us enthralled for hours. Then the dolphins turned up, over 2000 of them is a line for miles.  The special day ended with setting sun gracing the rugged mountains for Baja.

Mountains and unique Eco-systems

At the end of the boat trip Mike and I travelled to the southern tip of the peninsular to hike through the Sierra de la

The High mountains

Laguna. The start was not go as planned because the rendez-vous with our guide was changed since he had to care for a fallen horse. Three buses and half a day later we met up. This part of the Baja California is geologically unusual, being made of granite not the sedimentary rocks of the rest of the state. The granite has worn more slowly and retained a water table that has created a unique habitat in the high mountains. It took a two days of hard 6 hours hikes to make it to the valleys where the endemic species have evolved in the cool pine woods. It’s a remarkable trip from Sea of Cortez coast, across the range to the Pacific passing through dessert, canyons, woods and back to dessert. Drinking water is available from a few mountain springs and camping three nights made for a complete contrast to the sedate luxury pace of the sailing. Not a trip for the faint hearted, the heat and climb are demanding but within the ability of most who are moderately fit.  The place is magical and the high pine forests are rich and not at all what you expect when passing through the dessert. The rewards for the effort were a view of unique Mexico and the reassurance that the biosphere is treasured.

Failed at the Last

Flying home proved to be as much a part of the adventure as whales and mountains. Flights to the UK were suspended on the 14th, the day we returned from Mexico to LA. The plan was to break the journey in LA but no one anticipated the 12 days of disruption.

Just two coats of anti-foul paint sir?

Having been away for a month serving time bothering whales and dolphins in the Sea of Cortez off Baja California,  hiking for four days across the Sierra del Lagoona and finally being delayed 12 days in Los Angeles on the way back to the UK its time to get back to some serious work of boat maintenance. There are some things that can not be avoided, unless you can afford  a man that does. Painting the below water surfaces of the hull with special marine anti-foul paint is one. It’s a messy job and I loath it, not because its difficult or because I end up stinking of hideous chemicals but because it takes three hours and it’s tedious. Then wait 24 hours and do it all again for the second coat.

Don't park cars beneath boats, especially when the boat is being painted!

To make life more interesting some clown decided to park his expensive car underneath the boat. Lucky both car and boat paint were grey!

The Munro tradition

We are blessed in Britain to have a huge diversity of geography on our island. A day’s drive from the capital there is the wilderness of the Highlands of Scotland. Over the last century folks from all over have been climbing the mountains of Scotland and of the three  hundred or so that are above 3,000 feet a list has been compiled, originally by Sir Hugh Munro, and maintained by the Scottish Mountaineering Club (SMC). These mountains are collectively known as Munros. Ticking off the list the mountains that have been summitted is a hobby adored by the outdoor fanatic brigade, some even like to double strike once in summer and again in winter.

You find these folk sitting of an evening  at tables around log fires of the few hotels that are open in the winter. With their maps and SMC guides they are easily discerned from the casual Highland travellers.

Glen Shiel and the Cluanie Inn

The top is plastered with snow

Based at the Inn by the side of the road that runs through the Glen Mike and I were able to set out each morning for the week and step straight onto the mountains. The breakfast room has a view of the Ciste Dubh (Black Chest) and although its lower half  is obscured by the hills that are nearer the road. A bracing six hours on the mountain but alas the snow on the ridge was corniced and too dangerous for old but not bold folk.

South of the Glen Shiel is a series of lower but  equally impressive mountains that can be approached using the old road that goes over a high pass then down to Loch Loyne. Two days were spent exploring this corner but this time recent snow a foot deep on the mountain made the going slow difficult and potentially dangerous. Generally, consolidated snow makes the going easier since a grassy slope too steep to stride becomes manageable with heavy boots, crampons or even ice axes stamped into the hard snow makes a set step and good going.

If you want something done ask a busy person. I have a part-time job which is making a welcome contribution to the coffers. I’ve got a tutor marked assessment to do for the Open University, plan a business trip to Chicago and private trip to Mexico, all to be crammed  into the next 10 weeks.  Meanwhile, progress on the project is shifting gears. I will have the boat hauled mid March so I can get the anti-foul paint applied to the hull, the engine and sail drive  serviced. The sail drive a fancy name for a gear box and propeller.  I am also sorting out the electronics that after 10 years have become  flakey and in dire need of replacement. Quite honestly, the to-do list is looking too long! Still crack on there are 18 waking hours in a day!

The charts are beginning to flow in. I have acquired a set of Imary charts which is good for passage making with detailed inserts of key harbours. Thank goodness of ebay and Kelvin Hughes. Some progress but not enough!